Here I am back in Iberia. Two years ago we drove through eastern France and down to Valencia along the east coast, via Barcelona. This year we took the western route, via bright Burgos and magnificent Salamanca, then to Merida and into Portugal towards the lovely walled town of Evora, before striking south for Sagres. The last time I did this route was in 1989. How both countries have developed since. More highways, motorways, though luckily not much traffic going into Portugal. In fact, for 20 minutes there was not a car or truck in sight along the hot spanking new asphalt. Sagres is in the south western tip of Portugal, nestling among cliffs that mark the gateway to southern Europe and the lands of the Mediterranean.